THE EXTENSION STARTS FROM THE FOUNDATION
Any construction begins with a foundation.
The strength of the house as a whole depends on how strong the foundation is. But do you always need an expensive and powerful foundation, or in some cases you can get by with lighter and more economical ones? Basic rules
To begin with, I should note that the dimensions of the foundation and its design depend on the following conditions:
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- the soil on which you are going to build the structure;
- proximity to a natural body of water;
- the location of your site on the ground, that is, in a lowland where melt water will flow in the spring, or on a hill where most of the year the soil dries out quickly;
- the material from which the extension will be built on this foundation and the weight of this material.
Do I need to obtain permission to build a house in SNT in 2020?
- Houses that are built on lands intended for individual housing construction.
- Buildings located on a site intended for gardening or farming.
- Garden houses that are located on the territory intended for dacha farming;
- Garages, gazebos, outbuildings that were erected on a site provided for individual housing construction.
- Any other buildings that can be erected without obtaining a development permit.
- 1 On what lands is construction allowed?
- 2 What and where can be built
- 3 What is allowed to build in gardens (SNT, SNP, SPK)
- 4 Standards for building houses
- 5 Do I need to obtain permits?
- 6 What are the consequences of failure to comply with prescribed standards?
IF THE EXTENSION IS FROM WOOD
If the extension is made of timber measuring, for example, 150 x 150 mm, the height of the walls is about 3-4 m, that is, the structure is one-story, then the basis of such a structure can be the following design: concrete pillars are poured at the corners of the foundation to a depth of about 150 cm, and the their concrete strip is about 50 cm deep. It all depends on the length of the foundation: the longer it is, the more often the pillars need to be installed - say, every 150 cm. In any case, it will be a so-called strip foundation.
The difference between the depth of the trench under the pillars and under the tape is a matter of saving on materials for the foundation.
In this case, you can afford this kind of savings, since the structure is supposed to be quite light. The depth of the pillars is provided for central Russia, where soil freezing in severe winters reaches 150 cm.
And for reliability, it is better to tie the pillars together, otherwise in the spring during the thaw and after it they can “walk” both to the sides and in height. This “walking” depends on both the freezing of the soil and its composition.
If the soil is sandy and the sand layer is at least 2 m, then moisture will seep through it quickly. And if there is a lot of clay in the soil or it generally consists only of it, then in the fall a lot of moisture will accumulate around the foundation, which in winter will turn into ice and literally squeeze out
foundation up. In this case, each pillar will be squeezed out differently, that is, live its own life. So tying the pillars together is far from unnecessary.
Let me give you a clear example: at a friend’s dacha near the Mozhaisk Reservoir, a fence consisting of brick pillars and metal sheets fell down several springs in a row. It turned out that they saved on the depth of the foundation under the pillars and did not connect them together. As a result, we lost it on bricks and corrugated sheets. But on clay and mixed soil, a 150-cm trench depth for the foundation is not enough. Under it you need to make a cushion from a mixture of sand and crushed stone from 10 to 20 cm so that the moisture still leaves.
I don’t want to talk about using iron pillars as a base for the structure. And it doesn’t matter whether they are dug in or screwed into the ground. It’s one thing if you are adding a veranda or summer terrace to your house. And another thing is if you are going to live in this extension all year round.
The summer version of the extension can also be installed on poles without subsequent tying with a plinth. But the winter one, in my opinion, should include the construction of a base on a strip foundation with a height of at least 40 cm made of concrete poured into a pre-constructed formwork made of boards.
Important!
If the extension is being built on a gentle slope, then the height of the plinth 40 cm should be on the highest side of the slope, and at the lowest point - what will be the horizontal level: 50-100 cm or more.
It is necessary to provide a pair of holes in the base on two opposite sides so that the space between the ground and the future floor of the extension is well ventilated and the floor does not become damp.
If the floor is made of boards, then without ventilation they will simply rot over time before the floor collapses. There will be a rather unpleasant and harmful smell of mold in the room for several years. Holes, or otherwise vents, can be made from plastic sewer pipes with a diameter of 10 cm. Before pouring concrete, placing them in the formwork at a height from the ground that prevents water flows from entering during rain and melting snow. For the winter, it is convenient to close them with plastic caps so that cold air does not enter the room through the floor. The width of the foundation for the construction of an extension made of timber on it is sufficiently 30-35 cm, taking into account possible insulation and cladding of the building, say, siding.
How to obtain permission for an extension
The commission will review the project, and the court will ultimately make a decision based on the verdicts of the three organizations. What it will be depends on the consent of each body separately and the compliance of the structure with the norms in force in the region. Obtaining permission for an extension The paperwork process itself will, of course, make you nervous.
Attention
Firstly, it cannot be resolved in a few days, and secondly, it will require going through a series of approvals. Let's take a closer look at how this happens in practice. Initially, specialists will study the design of the future extension. It must meet the requirements that they state.
This process is quite long. If the project is approved, the applicant will receive the appropriate paper. With it, he will have to go to the utility service and request permission, as well as to the fire department. This authority will have to carry out the audit according to its security parameters.
IF THE EXTENSION IS MADE OF FOAM CONCRETE
If the extension is made of foam block or brick, then the foundation must be stronger: at least 150-180 cm deep and at least 40 cm wide. When calculating the width of the foundation, you should also take into account how you will decorate the outer walls of the building and whether you will insulate them and what materials (Fig. 1).
Before pouring concrete into the prepared trench, you need to install a metal skeleton made of reinforcement in it.
For an extension, fittings with a diameter of 10-12 mm are quite suitable. Around the base it would be useful to pour a concrete blind area at least 50 cm wide and 10 cm thick. Having previously created a cushion of sand and crushed stone under it and covered it with a metal mesh for reinforcement. The blind area will further protect the foundation from the penetration of large amounts of water. Typically, cement or concrete made from M300 cement is used for the foundation.
THERE ARE OPTIONS
I would like to give you two examples of creating a foundation for an extension to a residential building on a personal plot.
The first example is my personal one. I am a native villager. The second example is my neighbor, a professional builder with a higher education. Under his leadership, a lot of land was dug up in the near and far Moscow region to fill the foundations. Which example is more suitable is up to you to decide. Or you can take both into account and combine them.
How to register a house in SNT in 2020
- garages erected on a site that was given to a citizen for use;
- buildings under construction or constructed on a piece of land used for farming/gardening;
- auxiliary buildings.
The validity of such a regulatory act was extended three times - until 2010, then until 2020 and now until 2020. However, although the law defines the rules for registration, it still has its own difficulties and ill-conceived issues. And in order to register a house on a land plot in SNT, you need to understand the intricacies of this procedure.
06 Oct 2020 hiurist 339
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OPTION ONE
Now I’ll tell you how I made the foundation for my house. Naturally, not alone, but with assistants. It was planned to install a structure made of foam blocks on the foundation. Respectively. The dimensions of the foundation were determined by the dimensions of this material. It must be said that foam concrete from Belarus was a fairly light building material compared to brick.
First, we dug a trench 160 cm deep and 50 cm wide. Our soil is sandy, but there are also layers of clay.
I covered the bottom of the trench with a small (about 10 cm) layer of clean sand - that's it. for peace of mind. Then, at the corners of the trench and approximately every one and a half meters between the corners, I inserted poles 2 m high, pre-made from reinforcement, taking into account the fact that after pouring the foundation, the base will be poured. The height of the base must be calculated in advance. It’s better to cut down the excess reinforcement later than to build it up.
But I still had to build it up, since I made the pillars the same size, forgetting that I had a slope (Fig. 2).
The pillars have the following structure: four two-meter sticks of reinforcement are connected to each other at the bottom, top and in the middle by four short pieces of reinforcement 45 cm long. Each is in the shape of a square - so that they protrude 5 cm on each side. Thus, the distance between the two-meter reinforcement was 35 cm on each of the four sides of the pillar.
All connections are made using binding wire and nothing else. Connections made by welding may look more beautiful and reliable. but in damp conditions, the reinforcement will begin to rot at the welding points, and over time corrosion will destroy it.
Costs for the procedure for legalizing an extension
Regardless of the path you decide to take, in order to legalize your construction, you will need to pay a number of government fees and duties, and also possibly spend money on the help of a law firm.
Costs most often arise are of the following types:
- state duty when going to court. Can reach several thousand rubles;
- technical examination of the structure to ensure that there is no threat to the integrity of water and gas pipes, as well as other means of communication. About 20,000 rubles;
- fee for editing the original construction plan of a private house;
- coordination of any related nuances of redevelopment.
The amounts can only be indicated approximately, since the state duty is always calculated on the basis of the Tax Code, and, with regard to property matters or related to property that requires assessment, will always depend on the value of the object. Legalizing an extension to a private house can cost up to several tens of thousands of rubles.
Attention! The regional affiliation of the case under consideration, as well as the complexity of the work carried out for the assessment, are also important.
DO-IT-OWN HOUSE EXTENSION WALLS
Against the background of a wooden house, an extension made of brick or foam block, covered with fur coat plaster, would look good, and vice versa, a structure made of rounded logs would be quite suitable for a brick house.
In my opinion, an extension made of logs with a diameter of 20-25 cm is the best that can be invented throughout Russia. The structure is made of good quality dry logs, tightly folded and caulked with tow, and does not require additional insulation. In winter, it will be comfortable even in severe frosts, and in the summer heat, if you do not open the windows, the pleasant coolness will remain from morning to evening. This, of course, is provided that there is a well-insulated roof.
Before building walls, waterproofing must be laid on the foundation. This measure is necessary regardless of the wall material. If they are made of timber or logs, then the lowest elements (crown) should be additionally treated with bitumen.
The walls of the extension do not have to be built from the same material from which the main building is built. It all depends on individual taste and financial capabilities.
Brick and foam blocks
The material is laid on cement mortar or special glue and after drying it becomes almost monolithic. To attach to the wall of the main house, if both the house and the extension are, for example, brick, it is enough to install a metal plaster mesh bent in half every five rows of masonry.
One half of it will be in the masonry of the extension, and the other will be attached to the wall of the main house using dowels. The seam between the walls of the extension and the main house is sealed during the laying process with the same cement mixture used for laying bricks. The walls of the foam block extension are joined using the same scheme. In this case, the mesh is laid every two foam blocks. In the same way, brick or foam block masonry is attached to a wooden wall, only the seam between the walls is filled with polyurethane foam.
Legalize an extension to a private house in 2020
- If a lawyer represents your interests, you will need to pay for his services. One consultation on this issue in Moscow will cost from 1,500 to 3,500 rubles. Participation in court hearings will cost about 35,000 per process;
- payment of state duty 200-500 rubles;
- carrying out technical examination – from 25,000 rubles;
- making changes to the technical plan - from 10,000 rubles;
- approval of the redevelopment of the entire building - about 20,000 rubles;
- registration of a power of attorney to conduct business with certification from a notary – 1,000 rubles.
The choice of the judicial body in which the specified case will be considered depends on the value of the object. If the price of the statement of claim does not exceed 50 thousand rubles, the case is subject to consideration in the magistrate's court. If the specified amount is above 50 thousand rubles, the documents must be submitted to a court of general jurisdiction (district or city court).
WOODEN EXTENSION
But with the wooden wall of the extension, certain difficulties may arise. Firstly, wood is a living material. The tree “breathes” and “walks” a little when the season changes. The extension has three walls. and not four, stacked like a well and supporting each other, so they need to be attached to the house more reliably. You can secure each log separately, for example, using metal corners on both sides.
The logs themselves must be fastened together with spikes every 1.5-2 m, having previously drilled through holes. Spikes for this are usually made of birch and are sold separately at construction markets and in stores.
The corners of the extension are folded in a special way. There are two main ways - in the paw and in the bowl. The log will look nice if you place it in a bowl so that its ends protrude 20-30 centimeters outward from the corners.
The beam is usually placed in the paw. All the same, walls made of timber 10-15 cm wide must be sheathed, pre-insulated, since a thickness of 15 cm is not enough for a warm extension.
Important!
For wooden construction, you need to buy timber that has been felled and cut down in winter. Such a tree has given up all its juices to the earth, it is already practically dry, and will warp less.
It’s even better if you cut down the dead wood.
Calculating the height of the extension wall (it can be, for example, 250 cm), add another extra log. The wood will dry out and the wall will shrink in a couple of years. Before covering wooden walls, for example, with clapboard, you need to wait a couple of years. so that the walls settle, otherwise the finish will warp. During the drying process of the logs, the seams between them will have to be periodically re-pierced with tow. And outside it can be pulled out by birds for their nests. And don’t forget to treat the tree with a remedy for rot and bark beetle!
Important!
When inserting windows, leave gaps of 3 cm on the sides and 10 cm on top of the frame, otherwise it will tear and the glass will fly out. Fill the gaps not very tightly with tow. Do the same with the door if you are going outside.
The extension usually has three walls. Of course, if you are building something unusual, then there may be more walls. In any case, there is a need to connect two of them to the main house.
Pseudo-frame extension for a house, sue the builder after construction
Legalize the extension in court
Let's talk a little about the conditions under which you can expect a positive court decision. Let's highlight four main ones:
- you, as the owner of the site, have the right to build the facility
- construction parameters comply with the requirements of urban planning regulations
- there is no violation of the rights and interests of others
- the constructed facility must meet safety requirements
Compliance with these conditions does not yet guarantee that the court will side with you. However, without them, it will be extremely difficult to convince a judge of the legitimacy of your claims to law.
In case of a negative court decision, a fine is imposed and an order is issued to return everything to its original form. Simply put, such a building is subject to demolition, and at your expense. There is another option for the development of events. We are talking about demolition by local authorities, again with expenses charged to your account. In this case, the costs may be much higher.
INSULATION OF EXTENSION WALLS
Choose sheet insulation for walls. Rolled ones are suitable for insulating floors: they will slide off the wall. And it’s more convenient to work with sheet insulation. You can use mineral and stone wool or polystyrene foam. In private houses, mice can live in the insulation between the wall and the cladding. If you insulate your walls with foam plastic, be prepared for this!
Don't forget to use a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier film is designed so that air passes through only one side. Therefore, it is sewn to the wall with the front side facing out. Usually it is on this side that the inscriptions are located - for example, the brand name. If they are not there, keep in mind that the film is wound into a roll with the front side facing out.
Let's look at an example of insulating a wooden wall. The wall is covered with a vapor barrier using a construction stapler. The thickness of the stone wool slab is 5 cm. Wooden blocks also 5 cm thick are screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws (if the insulation is laid in one layer). Using fixing screws, the bars are adjusted in level. The distance between the slats will be equal to the width of the insulation board. Thermal insulation is installed into the resulting niches and covered with a vapor barrier film. Then clapboard or plastic siding is sewn to the bars.
Walls made of other materials are insulated using the same principle.
© Author: Alexey Vladimirov
Reasons for refusing to legalize an extension
Let's consider the main reasons why judicial and administrative authorities make negative decisions in issuing permission for major changes to a house or in recognizing ownership of them:
- failure to comply with formal requirements (submitting an incomplete set of documents);
- the applicant lacks the authority to carry out reconstruction;
- non-compliance of the planned or constructed extension with building codes, the purpose of the site, or the site surveying project;
- non-compliance of the design and materials used with safety requirements, and for this reason, failure can occur at any stage: during planning, commissioning or in case of legalization through the court;
- exceeding the maximum dimensions of permissible construction: in such circumstances, it is advisable to coordinate the planned excesses with the competent authority;
- deviation of the constructed facility from the design and permitting documentation.
One can argue for a long time that the requirements for legalizing extensions are unfair to the rights of homeowners.
However, such an argument will not help owners defend their rights to protect property. Despite the complexity and length of time, the procedure for registering an extension in advance is the preferred method. The owner of an unauthorized construction finds himself in a more disadvantageous position. He will have to go through the same collection of documents, as well as a lengthy trial and considerable financial expenses.
ROOF EXTENSION TO HOUSE
The roof of the extension is practically no different in design from the roof of the house. Still, there are some nuances that are important to consider.
Table. COMPARISON OF ROOFING MATERIALS BY MAIN CHARACTERISTICS.
MATERIAL | LIFE , YEARS | ROOF ANGLE | WEIGHT, KG/M2 |
Metal tiles | 10-50 | from 15th | 3-5 |
Roofing profiled decking | 10-50 | from 10° | 5-6 |
Ondulin, aqualin, euroslate | 15 | from 5e | 3-3,5 |
Flexible/bitumen shingles | 20-70 | From 11th | 5-30 |
Ceramic tiles | 80-100 | 25-60° | 35-65 |
Sand-cement tiles | 30-100 | 20-60’ | 35-40 |
METAL TILES.
After studying the market for this roofing material, it seems that some manufacturers are ready to stamp metal tiles that are slightly thicker than foil. Now a sheet 3 m long needs to be torn off the ground by four people - one person on each side. Otherwise it will wrinkle.
Even the claws of crows leave marks on such a roof. But it's cheap. Therefore, savings should be reasonable: quality material should be chosen.
PROFESSIONAL DECORATING.
This is a fairly popular material, but, as in the case of metal tiles, its quality often leaves much to be desired. Unscrupulous sellers indicate the thickness of the sheet already taking into account the applied coatings, thereby misleading the buyer.
SOFT ROOF.
This material comes in a variety of shapes and colors. but has quite a lot of weight. It must be laid on a flat surface, that is, the roof should first be covered with either plywood or pressed chipboard. And this is additional weight. This means that the roof frame will have to be made stronger. We also take into account the fact that in winter snow does not move well from a rough surface and adds load. All this affects the final cost.
ONDULIN has become more expensive than metal tiles. Its installation also requires a solid, flat surface made of plywood or OSB.
I chose metal tiles for the roof of my extension. Summer rain knocking on the roof? Nothing like this! If the sheets fit tightly to the sheathing, the noise will be no louder than with any other roofing material. Good thermal insulation of the roof will also do its job: it is also sound insulation. If the extension has a small attic or similar, the air space between the roof and ceiling will also act as insulation.
I was building a gable roof. A full-fledged attic for the extension is not needed, so I simply made an air insulating space with the expectation that the ceiling of the extension would be flat and not broken. I laid 15 cm timber on the walls. One was against the wall of the main house, and the other was on the opposite edge of the extension. Between them, at the same distance from each other, placed beams of the same length. The distance should not exceed the width of the insulation sheets, which we will then lay.
On each side, the beam should protrude from the wall of the extension by 30-50 cm so that water flowing from the roof does not fall on the walls, but drains onto the ground away from the foundation. Ideally, flashings and gutters can be installed.
I took the height of the roof from the wall of the extension to the top point (ridge) to be 1 m with a wall width of 3 m. It turned out that the timber for the ceiling - the so-called logs - will be 4 m long. The usual length of the timber is 6 m. The remaining two-meter beams can be sawn Install meter-long supports in half and in the middle of the log to install the rafters. In addition, the remaining pieces of timber will go on the walls between the lags, which will seem to grow into the wall.
I prepared the rafters by cutting 6-meter boards in half, 10-15 cm wide and 2.5-4 cm thick. I nailed them (can also be secured with screws) on each side of the joist. If you take a board 4 cm thick, then one side is enough. To begin with, I installed rafters against the wall of the main house and on the opposite side of the extension. I aligned them relative to each other using a spirit level, stretching the twine between them. I installed the rest of the rafters, adjusting them to this level using twine. The lower edges of the rafters were aligned with each other in the same way.
Next, I made the roof sheathing from boards 2-2.5 cm thick - there is no need for thicker ones. But first I insulated the ceiling. Doing this later would be inconvenient. I lined the bottom joists with clapboard. As an alternative, I would recommend a 4 cm thick floorboard: it provides additional thermal insulation and looks smooth and not textured like lining.
I made a rough ceiling from simple boards, then covered them with laminate - this makes it much more convenient to work with insulation. I installed steam and heat insulation on the ceiling. I also laid a vapor barrier on top and sewed everything up with a board. It turned out to be a good sandwich. The thickness of the insulation layer is equal to the width of the beam - it can be compacted even thicker. Then I started laying the roof. The ceiling turned out to be quite strong, and therefore the rafters were sheathed not entirely, but through a board. The sheathing was also covered with a vapor barrier and metal tiles were laid. Condensation may form on the metal tiles below. To prevent this from happening, the under-roof space must be ventilated. If the ceiling is sufficiently insulated, this will not affect the temperature inside the room.
© Author: Alexey Vladimirov
Important!
The joint between the roof and the wall or gable of the roof of the house should be closed with a special profile using seals or roofing sealant. If the roof is connected to a stone structure, a groove 20 mm deep should be cut into the wall. The upper bend of the profile is mounted into it.
How to attach a new House to an old one? Sedimentary seam?
What can the construction of an unapproved extension lead to?
Initially, it must be said that it is highly recommended to obtain permission before starting any construction, which will significantly reduce the number of possible negative consequences. If you plan to build a building that meets all standards, then they simply cannot refuse you.
Without obtaining the appropriate permission, you will inevitably face a number of problems in the future.:
- It is impossible to transfer ownership of the house. This will mean a ban on purchase, sale or exchange. Possible heirs will also have difficulties;
- if a complaint is received from neighbors (and it will certainly come if the extension overlooks their site or violates their rights in any other way), then the bailiffs, declaring the building illegal, will demand that the new structures be demolished;
- There is a fine for erecting an unauthorized structure. You also incur material losses if demolition activities are carried out at your expense.
Simply put, nothing can be done with this house until you either return it to its original form or complete all the documents: it will be impossible to sell it or issue a mortgage to purchase the house to a potential buyer.
It is important to note that the age of the extension does not play any role at all. If there is some kind of building on your site that is not included in the original plan, then it is better to start registering it with the state now, in 2020, because In the future, it is planned to seriously tighten this procedure.
Attention! At the initial stage of construction, it will be enough to contact the design organization, whereas once the extension is completed, it will be necessary to win a lawsuit.
EXTENSION TO A HOUSE: DESIGN ACCORDING TO NEW RULES
Today we will talk about designing an extension to the house. In principle, what an extension is from a household point of view is clear to everyone. An addition to the house is being made that was not planned in the previous project. For example, a terrace or veranda, a summer kitchen or a living room is attached to one of the walls of the house (or even two). Even a garage can be attached. The extension can be of any number of floors, size, etc. Naturally, within the limits established by law. Thus, the height of an individual housing construction project (IHC) should not be higher than 20 m.
How does the law define an extension? In the Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation (GrK), the concept of “extension” is absent. However, paragraph 14 of Article 1 defines the reconstruction of capital construction projects. It is understood as “a change in the parameters of a capital construction project, its parts (height, number of floors, area, volume), including superstructure, reconstruction, expansion of a capital construction project, as well as replacement and (or) restoration of load-bearing building structures of a capital construction project, with the exception of replacing individual elements of such structures with similar or other elements that improve the performance of such structures and (or) restoring these elements.”
As you can see, the extension, which we talked about at the beginning of the publication, is covered by the concept of “reconstruction”. That is, an extension is a reconstruction of an existing capital construction project (in our case, a residential or garden house). This is what you should proceed from when starting to build an extension.
About the goals of innovation
Please note: the new regulations apply equally to both construction and renovation. Although, of course, the new rules were adopted primarily with the aim of preventing the illegal construction of a house, and not its reconstruction, which usually corresponds to the parameters of a residential building and the implementation of which much less often violates established requirements.
In other words, we must be guided by the new provisions of the Civil Code, which were introduced by Federal Law No. 340 of August 3, 2020. It follows from them that now, when reconstructing an individual housing construction project, as well as a residential building, a garden house, it is not necessary to obtain a construction permit. But this does not mean that the authorities have given free hands to citizen developers and allowed them to carry out any construction manipulations with their houses to their taste and discretion. Perhaps it's the opposite. A new article 51.1 has been introduced into the Civil Code, which is called “Notification of the planned construction or reconstruction of an individual housing construction project or garden house.”
From the title of Article 51.1 it is clear that local authorities must now be notified in advance, even before the reconstruction of the house begins. That is, it will no longer be possible to carry out the extension first and then legalize it retroactively.
What is required to be included in the notice of a planned extension? In addition to information about the owner of the property and the land plot, it is necessary to inform about the planned parameters of the individual housing construction project, including setbacks from the boundaries of the land plot.
In other words, local authorities must know how the property will change after the extension is completed: in particular, whether the distance to the site boundary will become less than the minimum (3 m).
You will learn how to proceed next from the response of the local government authority.
© Author: Yuri Volokhov
Extension to the house. HOW TO LINK THE WALL OF THE EXTENSION TO THE MAIN HOUSE.⚒
Important!
The notification form must be approved by the authorized government agency; perhaps it will contain other sections that reflect the specifics of the planned reconstruction, and not the construction of the house.
Permission to build a house on your own plot in 2020: when you need it, how to get it
Hello! I applied for permission to build a residential building, but I was refused. The text indicated that as of August 4 of last year, the document was no longer required. In the end, I didn’t understand whether it was possible to start construction?
How much does the required paperwork cost? There is no cost to submit the notice, which is valid for 2020. But you will have to make approvals, draw up additional papers (SPOZU and GPZU), which leads to expenses. Often citizens do not want to deal with the issue personally and turn to intermediaries: the cost of their services reaches 20,000 rubles.
Interesting: Benefits for Low-Income Families in 2020 Tatarstan
HOW I BUILT AN EXTENSION TO A HOUSE - VIDEO
Extension to the house
TOOLS FOR CRAFTSMAN AND CRAFTSMAN, AND HOUSEHOLD GOODS VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
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With your own hands › Construction › Do-it-yourself extension to the house from A to Z
What is the reconstruction of a private residential building: how to avoid refusal and obtain permission
After submitting the documents, the application is considered within 7 working days, after which the applicant must be notified in writing of the adopted resolution. The applicant must contact the fire service and the SES to further agree on a decision, which will result in the issuance of a permit or refusal.
Renovating a house is a very important process that requires approval and permission from local governments. Since changes in parameters can disrupt the safety of the house and affect the interests of the people living in it, as well as neighbors.